Wet rural roads

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Postby martine » Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:15 pm


I was out with an associate this morning in the 'February' murk and we got to talking about what changes you should make when driving on a wet rural road - apart from the obvious of leaving more space in front...

Ideas please?
Martin - Bristol IAM: IMI National Observer and Group Secretary, DSA: ADI, Fleet, RoSPA (Dip)
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Postby akirk » Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:05 pm


I think it can depend on how wet...
various tactics:
- drive the 4x4 instead of the RWD sports car is an obvious one - the z3 shimmys and jumps if one wheel loses traction through water - the Kuga (now octavia - but same Haldex system) seems happy as long as one of 4 wheels is reasonably dry...
- local knowledge is helpful - but being cautious on roads where there is noticeable camber / change of surface as pools of water can collect and coming around a corner to find half your side flooded and a lorry heading at you on the other side is not for the faint hearted...
- more distance between cars
- might choose headlights on
- more observation around cyclists who are likely to pull out to avoid water (and who are probably not enjoying themselves anyway!)
- towel in the car for the dog!

Alasdair
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Postby titian » Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:36 pm


Ensure that your demisting system is switched on as soon as you get into the car, wet bodies soon mist up the windows.

Take a lighter grip on the steering wheel, it helps transmit twitches when a wheel begins to loose grip, then tighten up you grip immedisately to avoid the effects of standing water pulling your steering in one direction or the other.

Avoid pools of standing water if at all possible - remember that a roadside pool of water may hide a flooded mineshaft! Look well ahead, plan your drive with smooth positioning to avoid the worst of the standing water.

Maybe it's time to check and replace your wiper blades?

Whilst 1.6mm may be the legal minimum tread depth, on wet roads it's often safer to change your tyres at double that say, 3.5 - 4 mm.
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Postby fengpo » Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:45 pm


Highlights on.

Increase following distance to allow for the spray of surface water.

Reduction of speed to allow for the conditions.

Be mindful of corners, road might of flooded. Other road users may need to come over to your side of the road, to avoid the worse of the water. Tuck your car into the side of your side of the road to allow road users the time they need. Exercise patience then after you have driven though the affected area. Do a brake test to ensure no water has got onto the brake pads.

These are generally what I do when driving in the conditions described.
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Postby petes » Mon Jul 13, 2015 5:50 pm


akirk wrote:I think it can depend on how wet...
various tactics:
- drive the 4x4 instead of the RWD sports car is an obvious one - the z3 shimmys and jumps if one wheel loses traction through water - the Kuga (now octavia - but same Haldex system) seems happy as long as one of 4 wheels is reasonably dry

Alasdair


Not really normal to have different cars for each season though, is it?
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Postby JamesAllport » Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:22 pm


I tend to think about having my tyres on the best available surface at all times, wet or dry. In the wet that can mean moderating my positioning for vision on the approach to bends (and therefore my speed); and also sometimes timing my approach carefully so I don't meet an oncomer at a point where they have to run through some water to remain on "their" side of the road or I on mine.

Another vote here, too, for remembering that we might at any moment meet a car that's been forced to position strangely coming the other way.

A well maintained car with good tyres on a wet road is not something I worry about overmuch. But add in a bit of mud and it could all get quite exciting quite quickly. So paying attention to the available feedback through the steering wheel with a light grip can pay dividends.

James
Only two things matter: attitude & entry speeds.
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Postby trashbat » Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:52 pm


I live in Britain, in the countryside.

When's it not wet or rural?

Don't drive into puddles at speed because they probably contain enormous potholes. Periodically brake gently in advance to shed water and because nothing will happen for some time otherwise.
Rob - IAM F1RST, Alfa Romeo 156 JTS
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Postby akirk » Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:50 pm


petes wrote:
akirk wrote:I think it can depend on how wet...
various tactics:
- drive the 4x4 instead of the RWD sports car is an obvious one - the z3 shimmys and jumps if one wheel loses traction through water - the Kuga (now octavia - but same Haldex system) seems happy as long as one of 4 wheels is reasonably dry

Alasdair


Not really normal to have different cars for each season though, is it?


I have wellies for the wet, and normal shoes for the dry - seems to be an extension of the same logic :) and probably not all that unusual around here!

ahh - forgot the landrover for when the rain changes to snow :D

Alasdair
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Postby Silk » Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:08 pm


petes wrote:
akirk wrote:I think it can depend on how wet...
various tactics:
- drive the 4x4 instead of the RWD sports car is an obvious one - the z3 shimmys and jumps if one wheel loses traction through water - the Kuga (now octavia - but same Haldex system) seems happy as long as one of 4 wheels is reasonably dry

Alasdair


Not really normal to have different cars for each season though, is it?


It is on here. :wink: I only have the one car, so I have to drive to the conditions. When the conditions are less than ideal, I just take it easy. It's worked for me so far. I've even driven in the snow with normal tyres. :shock:
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Postby Silk » Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:25 pm


akirk wrote:I have wellies for the wet, and normal shoes for the dry - seems to be an extension of the same logic :) and probably not all that unusual around here!


I never wear wellies as I never go anywhere where they're necessary. Same with driving. I never go anywhere that can't be driven in a normal car. And yes, I do a lot of driving on rural roads all year round, but I'm not allowed to tell you that because it would be smug. :wink:
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Postby TripleS » Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:59 pm


titian wrote:Ensure that your demisting system is switched on as soon as you get into the car, wet bodies soon mist up the windows.

Take a lighter grip on the steering wheel, it helps transmit twitches when a wheel begins to loose grip, then tighten up you grip immedisately to avoid the effects of standing water pulling your steering in one direction or the other.

Avoid pools of standing water if at all possible - remember that a roadside pool of water may hide a flooded mineshaft! Look well ahead, plan your drive with smooth positioning to avoid the worst of the standing water.

Maybe it's time to check and replace your wiper blades?

Whilst 1.6mm may be the legal minimum tread depth, on wet roads it's often safer to change your tyres at double that say, 3.5 - 4 mm.


....so long as you remember to change back to tyres with a minimum of 1.6 mm tread when the roads are dry, :P though this can get a bit tyresome when we find the roads changing from dry to wet and vice versa several times during the course of one journey. :lol:
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Postby titian » Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:31 am


StressedDave » Tue Jul 14, 2015 6:38 am

titian wrote:
Take a lighter grip on the steering wheel, it helps transmit twitches when a wheel begins to loose grip, then tighten up you grip immedisately to avoid the effects of standing water pulling your steering in one direction or the other.
Personally, I never have anything other than the lightest grip possible. You don't actually get any benefit from a gorilla grip on the wheel even in standing water.


Have you never found yourself driving along a country road (or even on a motorway for that matter) in heavy rain, where due to the road layout you are forced to hold a nearside position, and the accumulation of water gripping the two nearside wheels begins to pull you into the nearside, firm up your grip, right hand pulls down against the forces pulling you into the nearside and the soft verge, it just may be a "gorilla grip" for a few moments - but you remain on the black stuff!
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Postby Silk » Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:17 am


titian wrote:
StressedDave » Tue Jul 14, 2015 6:38 am

titian wrote:
Take a lighter grip on the steering wheel, it helps transmit twitches when a wheel begins to loose grip, then tighten up you grip immedisately to avoid the effects of standing water pulling your steering in one direction or the other.
Personally, I never have anything other than the lightest grip possible. You don't actually get any benefit from a gorilla grip on the wheel even in standing water.


Have you never found yourself driving along a country road (or even on a motorway for that matter) in heavy rain, where due to the road layout you are forced to hold a nearside position, and the accumulation of water gripping the two nearside wheels begins to pull you into the nearside, firm up your grip, right hand pulls down against the forces pulling you into the nearside and the soft verge, it just may be a "gorilla grip" for a few moments - but you remain on the black stuff!


I wonder if it's just a kind of "comfort grip" and Dave is correct in that you would probably get the same result with a light grip. I must admit, I find myself doing the same as you in these circumstances - perhaps I should learn not to and let the car sort it out. It's probably the kind of thing you need to practice off-road in someone else's car. ;-)
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Postby Silk » Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:19 am


TripleS wrote:
titian wrote:Ensure that your demisting system is switched on as soon as you get into the car, wet bodies soon mist up the windows.

Take a lighter grip on the steering wheel, it helps transmit twitches when a wheel begins to loose grip, then tighten up you grip immedisately to avoid the effects of standing water pulling your steering in one direction or the other.

Avoid pools of standing water if at all possible - remember that a roadside pool of water may hide a flooded mineshaft! Look well ahead, plan your drive with smooth positioning to avoid the worst of the standing water.

Maybe it's time to check and replace your wiper blades?

Whilst 1.6mm may be the legal minimum tread depth, on wet roads it's often safer to change your tyres at double that say, 3.5 - 4 mm.


....so long as you remember to change back to tyres with a minimum of 1.6 mm tread when the roads are dry, :P though this can get a bit tyresome when we find the roads changing from dry to wet and vice versa several times during the course of one journey. :lol:


You need to get a trailer with a Land Rover on it. Most of the time, you'll be towing the Land Rover. When the weather takes a turn for the worst, you drive the Land Rover and put Frenchy on the trailer. HTH. ;-)
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Postby Astraist » Tue Jul 14, 2015 12:25 pm


Let's distinguish the force of the mechanical grip of the steering wheel from the grip tension in the forearms.

Especially with modern power assistance, one can hold the wheel quite steady (the former) without exerting much force (the latter) and thereby producing less fatigue and stress, and more feedback.

Just ask Ed Dellis.

BTW, Dave you should have a small chat with that chap someday. Being an Automotive engineer and driving coach, he sounds strikingly like you even through the keyboard. :lol:
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