Tips for driving smaller cars

[drivingsteve]

We'll soon be aquiring a second car - much smaller and less powerful than the main family vehicle. Probably a 1 litre runaround.

Does anyone have any tips on techniques for driving smaller, underpowered cars?

[jont]

Calling vanman....

[TR4ffic]

We've got a Peogeot 107 as a run-about/shopping trolley.

Easy to drive. Cheap to run, service and insure.

The only difference I would say regarding driving around town is that it prefers to stay in 3rd (out of 5) for chugging around at 30mph - it will do 30 in 4th obviously but its a bit sluggish... Other than that, carry on as normal.

[Gareth]

techniques for driving smaller, underpowered cars?

Accept it for what it is and don't thrash the bollocks off it trying to make it something it's not!

Be aware that the speeds at which you need to change gear are likely to be different from your main car. Also remember that you're more likely to need to change down earlier when going up a steep incline.

Overtaking will be more of a challenge -- you'll need to plan properly -- but the sense of achievement when you mange one is worth it!

[Angus]

Brief discussion when I was driving my daughter's Honda Jazz....

Daughter: "Are you in 3rd?"
Me: "yes"
Daughter: "But you're doing 50...."

[jameslb101]

Steve - if you haven't yet chosen your runabout have a look at the Up/Citigo/Mii trio. They're the best in class that I've driven.

We've got a Peogeot 107 as a run-about/shopping trolley.

Easy to drive. Cheap to run, service and insure.

The only difference I would say regarding driving around town is that it prefers to stay in 3rd (out of 5) for chugging around at 30mph - it will do 30 in 4th obviously but its a bit sluggish... Other than that, carry on as normal.

I've driven a Toyota Aygo quite a few times, which shares the drivetrain with the 107, and it has a very tall ratio gearbox. Most other small cars I've driven have more typical ratios, and my Polo (MY2003) had quite short gears - 50 in 2nd and 70 in 3rd. IIRC the Aygo did 70 in 2nd!

Accept it for what it is and don't thrash the bollocks off it trying to make it something it's not!

Thrashing the bollocks off some weedy little shopping trolley is one of life's greatest pleasures. The 3-pots are the best!

[MGF]

Improve your planning. You can't rely on power to putvyou where you need to be.

[fungus]

Calling vanman....

Floor it !

[jont]

Don't underestimate the different reactions you may get from other road users. Many (even subconsciously) may intimidate/not afford the space to a small car that they would to a "rep-mobile".

[vanman]

Calling vanman....

Floor it !

Thinner carpet helps a lot, seriously I have cut the revs quite a bit lately and seem to be going quite a bit faster out of bends. If i come in balanced not under power or braking then floor it as the limit point moves, full power is achieved as the road opens up great. This can be done even in higher gears 3rd 4th a lot quicker than dropping to 2nd for the bend. I chose the Micra because it has a camchain double overhead cams and 74bhp equating to about 90bhp per ton, which makes it quite nippy. The newer ones are quite a bit heavier inc. the 1.4. As replacement i was thinking of Dihatsu Serion 100bhp or Renault Clio Sport 170bhp Micra has to blow up first though.

[jcochrane]

I often drive my wife"s entry level Micra and it's so under powered that quite a fair bit of revs are required to even pull away in 1st on the flat! However better progress than most of the other traffic around and getting some overtakes in is still possible. As vanman has said working closely with the limit point is a key area. For most bends, on country roads, this means getting the throttle fully opened whilst still in the bend but judging that so the power/acceleration comes in and matches the quickening and expanding limit point precisely. There is a time lag between the throttle being fully open and the power being delivered which is where practice to time it correctly is needed. Many bends can be taken in one of two gears and often choosing the higher gear can improve overall pace as it can save a second and loss of momentum/acceleration in making an extra gear change after the bend.
More advanced planning has already been mentioned and this particularly applies to overtakes. Timing with the right amount of momentum can be critical. Because the overtakes are far more difficult they are also far more rewarding when completed successfully to the plan.

[waremark]

Don't carry any unnecessary weight. Turn off the air con. Allow more space when joining a stream of faster traffic.

[TripleS]

I often drive my wife"s entry level Micra and it's so under powered that quite a fair bit of revs are required to even pull away in 1st on the flat! However better progress than most of the other traffic around and getting some overtakes in is still possible. As vanman has said working closely with the limit point is a key area. For most bends, on country roads, this means getting the throttle fully opened whilst still in the bend but judging that so the power/acceleration comes in and matches the quickening and expanding limit point precisely. There is a time lag between the throttle being fully open and the power being delivered which is where practice to time it correctly is needed. Many bends can be taken in one of two gears and often choosing the higher gear can improve overall pace as it can save a second and loss of momentum/acceleration in making an extra gear change after the bend.
More advanced planning has already been mentioned and this particularly applies to overtakes. Timing with the right amount of momentum can be critical. Because the overtakes are far more difficult they are also far more rewarding when completed successfully to the plan.

That's true; these people with powerful cars have an easy time of it in when it comes to overtaking, but I'm just noticing your reference to momentum there. Is this not contrary to the 'recommended procedure' for overtaking?

The correct way of doing it, so I've heard, is:

1. When the prospect of an overtake seems to be emerging, advance from a following position to the contact position, i.e. a closer than normal following distance.
2. If safe to do so, start moving to an offside position for a better view.
3. If the improved view then reveals that is is safe to do so, go fully offside and continue to match the speed of the overtakee while you verify that you have all the information needed to safely perform the overtake.
4. As soon as you're quite sure you can make the overtake safely, open up and accelerate positively on a parallel course, with the intention of completing it quickly.
5. Once you are a comfortable distance ahead of the overtakee, return to your own side of the road, feeling pretty pleased with yourself; despite what those idiots at Brake may feel about such manoeuvres.

Now, I'm quite often a user of the momentum principle in overtaking, so I'm not at all dismayed by your reference to it, but maybe some of the purists might question it. What do you think?

Best wishes all,
Dave - not a regular prescription taker.

[MGF]

I will sometimes use momentum to close toward a contact position whilst offside where I will make the final decision to pass prior to being committed*. Obviously there isn't much momentum available but it is better than a 'standing' start.

eta

*to the overtake

[TripleS]

I will sometimes use momentum to close toward a contact position whilst offside where I will make the final decision to pass prior to being committed*. Obviously there isn't much momentum available but it is better than a 'standing' start.

eta

*to the overtake

OK, so you're not always going to match speed with the overtakee. Neither do I, but the officially recommended technique does seem to discount it.