Jackie Stewart wrote:The ideal position for me is to be able to clench the fist on the steering wheel itself, so that the elbow is bent[...]So you should be at ten minutes to two in my opinion.
I tend to be a bit closer to the steering wheel than what he appears to be. I can typically bend my wrist slight over the top of the wheel.
Shoulders and palms can be positioned in many ways for each hand position on the wheel, making his "test" a bit less accurate.
As for hand positions, it makes sense to hold the wheel over the diameter rather than a chord. That is unless the steering wheel is so big that said diameter is greater than the breadth of the driver's shoulders, as was the case with steering wheels in many cars early in Stewart's career.
Jackie Stewart wrote:Don't go so close to the edge of the road, that you go into the potholes[...]apex,where you actually make the transition from driving into the corner to driving out of it[...]try using one gear higher than you think you need.
I certainly stay away from dirt and "sharp edges". It' also worth remembering that if there is a slippery surface in the middle of our desired "line", any gains from taking a wider radius are typically outweighed by the reduced grip.
However, this has a far less pronounced effect on the tyres on the inside of the bend, so you can get away with getting only the outside tyres on good pavement.
Also, if another road user across the bend was to stray into my path, I certainly would drop the inside down the edge of the pavement.
As for gear selection, as long as it is dry, I prefer nicely low gears in bends so that it is easier to control the car's traejectory with the throttle.
Stewart's definition of the apex is very interesting because it means that even if you do not clip the inside of the bend, there is always an apex.
Jackie Stewart wrote:I've got opposite lock on[...]Purposely lock up my wheels by jamming on the brakes too hard. Therefore, I slide right through the gate.[...]This time I'm going to pump my brakes on and off.
Most modern cars are front-wheel driven and in that case any opposite lock will limit the driver's ability to accelerate out of the situation.
If the driver's reactions are quick and proactive, it might be a good idea to keep the steering straight on and simply accelerate out of harm's way.
As for sudden braking on all but smooth ice or snow, the extra stopping distance from locking up the wheels is more than outweighed by the losses of braking intermittently.
It therefore makes sense to "jam on" and lock up and then start backing off the pressure as to find (and maintain) threshold braking regressively, rather than finding it progressively or going through it via intermittent braking.
Further regress in braking pressure can accomodate for steering or for using up any extra distance from the obstacle as to accomodate for the braking of following drivers.
Since this skill is above and beyond what the vast majority of road drivers could achieve in an actual surprise situation, they will typically be better off jamming their brakes and backing off only to make allowances for steering and cornering (where needed) or for other drivers, where possible.
Of course ABS and ESP solves most of these problems.