StressedDave wrote:Kimosabe wrote:I looked into poly bushes for my MX5 recently and everyone who fits them to MX5s said that they stiffen the ride and most often make the whole thing fairly uncomfortable. Fine for track use but I'm never driving my car on a track, so it's pointless. Every MX5 specialist, apart from one, along with my mechanic, told me to go OEM.
Hope this helps. Maybe it's different for your car but I suspect not.
It's worth noting, on your particular car, that the assembly process in Hiroshima, leaves the bushes in a torqued up state limiting wheel travel and adding a preloaded spring that's stiffer than designed into the handling. It's worth getting someone to loosen off all the suspension bolts, relieve the pressure and tighten them up again.
mefoster wrote:Kimosabe wrote:I had forgotten about twisted bush syndrome.... on mx5s....Thanks for reminding me. Once I've had the Konis fitted, that's a definite job to have done while its up in the air.
Just for the avoidance of any confusion: the bolts need to be tightened when the car is on the ground/ramp and the suspension is "settled"/in normal running position. Tightening the bolts with the car in the air/on a lift and the suspension on full droop is what causes the problem.
Mr Cholmondeley-Warner wrote:Indeed - a nice man did this for me on the Boxster the other day because he suspected I'd done them up with the wheels dangling. I hadn't, but I'd probably not been able to jack the hub up as much as the weight of the car would have depressed the chassis. He altered the ride height by 1mm by do doing.
TripleS wrote:Mr Cholmondeley-Warner wrote:Indeed - a nice man did this for me on the Boxster the other day because he suspected I'd done them up with the wheels dangling. I hadn't, but I'd probably not been able to jack the hub up as much as the weight of the car would have depressed the chassis. He altered the ride height by 1mm by do doing.
....jack the hub up/depress the chassis? I don't understand that.
StressedDave wrote:TripleS wrote:....if we fail to remove the 'twist' or pre-load in the bushes, does it also shorten their life, in addition to being detrimental to the behaviour of the car? I would imagine it does, to some extent.
Probably not - they're designed in rotational shear, so having a preload on them does very little to change their life compared to the grief they get from a car driving up a road.
Mr Cholmondeley-Warner wrote:TripleS wrote:Mr Cholmondeley-Warner wrote:Indeed - a nice man did this for me on the Boxster the other day because he suspected I'd done them up with the wheels dangling. I hadn't, but I'd probably not been able to jack the hub up as much as the weight of the car would have depressed the chassis. He altered the ride height by 1mm by do doing.
....jack the hub up/depress the chassis? I don't understand that.
Car on axle stands. Insert new suspension arm and longitudinal facing bolt at inboard end. Arm is meant to be secured with the car in its running position as Mark posted. There is an arrow on the arm which should line up with a similar one on the chassis member. You can either lower the car so that the weight compresses the spring and lines the arrows up - in which case you can't get underneath to do the bolt up, or you can jack up the hub, with the car still on stands, to attempt to achieve the same thing. In practice what happens is that the car starts lifting off the axle stand before the running position is achieved, but I got nearly there. Hope that explains?
StressedDave wrote:1 - OE, unless the car is going to spend all it's time on track and you're such a good driver that bush compliance is limiting your lap speed.
2 - Dampers should mist slightly... otherwise OE. Handling problems are, in the main, caused by a loose nut behind the wheel. I find that trying to bend the car to your will is an exercise in unfruitfulness.
But, in any case, it's a 996 turbo. Do you really believe that the suspension is holding the driving experience back?
edited for bad speeling and punctuashion
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