MGF wrote:I thought the requirement was not to commit to the overtake prior to being sure the road in front of the car you're ovetaking is clear and reasonably sure will remain clear, for a safe overtake. As an offside view is usually necessary for that analysis this limits the use of momentum for an overtake.
TripleS wrote:In my experience quite a few overtakes can be assessed as you're catching up with another vehicle, and going partially or fully offside as you're closing on them. In that case there is no way I'm going to slow down and match speed with them while I have a final look before committing and going through with it. In such cases the speed differential needs to be restrained so that you can, if necessary, abort the overtake and tuck in behind your target vehicle.
jcochrane wrote:What you describe Dave for an overtaking system is the ideal for a mid straight overtake where no view of the road ahead and what is in front of the vehicle to be overtaken can be obtained in any other way.
Where possible I try to overtake at the start of the straight ie. on the bend exit. This maximises the distance available for an overtake and the necessary views as mentioned are obtained because of the curvature of the bend. If you see what I mean.
Tosh wrote:Once you have a sniff of an overtake, accelerate. While accelerating move towards the centre line and keep assessing. If it's still on position 1/4 of the car over. This is your commitment spot. If its still on then keep the toe in and get full offside and go
GJD wrote:Tosh wrote:Once you have a sniff of an overtake, accelerate. While accelerating move towards the centre line and keep assessing. If it's still on position 1/4 of the car over. This is your commitment spot. If its still on then keep the toe in and get full offside and go
I agree that when you don't have gallons of power on tap for a triumphant point and squirt, a bit of speed differential prior to committing can help (cue 7db to remind us all that you are committed as soon as you could no longer stop behind them if they braked hard), but why not go fully offside before deciding? It's almost certainly going to give you an even better view. What's the benefit of restricting yourself to the view from only 1/4 offside for the go/no go decision?
Tosh wrote:GJD wrote:Tosh wrote:Once you have a sniff of an overtake, accelerate. While accelerating move towards the centre line and keep assessing. If it's still on position 1/4 of the car over. This is your commitment spot. If its still on then keep the toe in and get full offside and go
What's the benefit of restricting yourself to the view from only 1/4 offside for the go/no go decision?
I'm only in the 1/4 offside position until I have roughly half the speed I require for the overtake. Then if its still on then it's full offside for a good look and continue to build the full speed differential required for the overtake.
Tosh wrote:To try and build up all your speed on the offside would mean a very long time spent on the wrong side of the carriageway!
GJD wrote:Tosh wrote:Once you have a sniff of an overtake, accelerate. While accelerating move towards the centre line and keep assessing. If it's still on position 1/4 of the car over. This is your commitment spot. If its still on then keep the toe in and get full offside and go
I agree that when you don't have gallons of power on tap for a triumphant point and squirt, a bit of speed differential prior to committing can help (cue 7db to remind us all that you are committed as soon as you could no longer stop behind them if they braked hard), but why not go fully offside before deciding? It's almost certainly going to give you an even better view. What's the benefit of restricting yourself to the view from only 1/4 offside for the go/no go decision?
TripleS wrote:I find in some situations I can only go partially offside initially, in order to verify that it is safe to go fully offside to get the complete picture.
Return to Advanced Driving Forum
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 31 guests